On December 13, 2023, the M+ American Friends Foundation (M+AFF) hosted a captivating panel discussion, “The Legacy of Madame Song,” shedding light on the contemporary resonance of Song Huai-Kuei (1937–2006), affectionately known as Madame Song. This event, held at Soho Works in NYC and parallel to M+’s exhibition in Hong Kong, featured an illustrious panel moderated by JiaJia Fei, including Blake Abbie, Gia Kuan, and Kim Shui.

Madame Song, a legend in Chinese art, film, music, and fashion during the 1980s and 1990s, was a pivotal figure in fostering creativity and a modern lifestyle in China, overcoming the country’s isolation during the Cold War. At a time when most people adhered to austerity, she introduced Pierre Cardin’s vibrant garments and a modern urban lifestyle to Beijing. She was at the centre of a thriving cultural community, facilitating forward-looking exchanges between China and the world. The exhibition chronicled her life from the 1950s to the early 2000s, highlighting her overlooked influence on China’s transformation into a cosmopolitan society.

Installation view of Madame Song: Pioneering Art and Fashion in China, 2023, Garments: Pierre Cardin Archives, Photo: Lok Cheng, Courtesy of M+, Hong Kong

The discussion at SoHo House in New York delved into Madame Song’s ability to operate across different domains, prompting the panelists to reflect on their own experiences navigating diverse fields. Fei inquired about their sources of inspiration from such interdisciplinary work and explored their individual relationships with China. The conversation extended to the necessity of collaboration among Asian Americans in the context of the United States, emphasizing the importance of working together to amplify their voices and contributions.

The panelists shared their perspectives on Madame Song’s influence in breaking boundaries, encouraging a dialogue on the interconnectedness of creative endeavors and the significance of cultural diversity. This dynamic exchange highlighted not only Madame Song’s enduring legacy but also the relevance of her approach in fostering collaboration and understanding in today’s global and diverse landscape. For those intrigued by these discussions, take a look at the short recap by the insightful panel.

Fashion shoot at the Forbidden City with Song Huai-Kuei and Chinese models trained by her, 1980s. Photo: © Yonfan

How did Song Huai-Kuei—famously known as Madame Song—become a cultural icon and notable fashion influencer of her time? At a time when most people adhered to austerity, the legendary figure introduced Pierre Cardin’s vibrant garments and a modern urban lifestyle to Beijing. She was at the centre of a thriving cultural community, facilitating forward-looking exchanges between China and the world on art, music, film, fashion, and popular culture.

In this Opening Talk of the M+ Special Exhibition, Madame Song: Pioneering Art and Fashion in China, we unveil the life of Song and how she was instrumental in shaping visual culture in China. Hear from M+ former Sigg Senior Curator and Head of Curatorial Affairs, Pi Li; M+ De Ying Associate Curator, Visual Art Wu Mo; and M+ Associate Curator of Design and Architecture Tanja Cunz, the co-curators of the special exhibition.

December 2023